Where we´re eating: Casa Cámara
135 years ago, Pablo Cámara turned this 17th century mansion that sits at the entrance of the port of Pasajes into one of Spain´s most praised seafood restaurants. Some say the best seafood in Spain. We´d tend to agree.
October 1, 2023 by EMT
There are several ways to arrive to Casa Cámara, but our favorite is by boat. Diners can hop on the tiny tugboat that regularly shuttles passengers back and forth from Pasai San Pedro to the charming fishing village that is Pasai Donibane (1.10 euro each way).
Before you actually arrive to the restaurant you have to weave your way through the narrow streets of Pasai Donibane. This is a unique fishing community built on the river and surrounded by warehouses, fishing vessels, and large cargo ships commuting their way in and out of sea. As you walk through the cobbled pedestrians-only village, admiring the picturesque houses of fishermen, you are quickly immersed in the serenity of this peaceful harbor.
After making your way through town, you arrive to Casa Cámara which is just tucked off the main road. The restaurant sits right on the water´s edge and most tables offer a great view of the river and boats sailing by.
The menu here is entirely focused on seafood and shellfish. Dishes are prepared using local ingredients and time-tested recipes. We ordered several plates to share as starters, including an outstanding alubias con langosta, white beans with lobster. The stew was a perfect marriage of brothy and creamy stock, onions, lobster meat, and tender beans. Next, we enjoyed delicious scallops still in their shells and bathed in an herby sauce. Our Terras Gauda Albariño paired perfectly with this second dish, as did the bread we used to soak up every bit of the silky sauce.
In between meals our attention was drawn to a large wooden well that sits in the center of the dining room. As orders come in, the restaurant´s staff makes use of a hang pulley and rope to hoist the lobsters directly from the metal cages they´re caught in. Diners confirm the lobster they´d like to eat and meanwhile the restaurant makes sure wine continues to flow.
For our main course we shared a lobster with a plate of patatas fritas, French fries, and a small green salad. The dish was simple and yet executed so well and outstanding in flavor. The lobster could not have been sweeter or more tender.
We finished our meal off with a few classic desserts, torrija and chocolate mousse, both of which we finished all too quickly.
While there tend to be limits to lingering, we just so happened to be the last lunch reservation of the day. The staff were warm and efficient, and let us know that on this occasion we could finish our coffees with ease while admiring the views from the historic dining room. The meal itself was certainly memorable and one we´ll be returning for, but the view that takes your breath away and atmosphere that truly allows you to unwind is why we can´t recommend this restaurant enough.
As we left Casa Cámara, we walked past line-dried linens and bright clusters of hortensias before returning to the ferry pick up. As we took off for the opposite side of the bay, we all shared the same thought - if all Sunday lunches could be like this one, that would be some kind of heaven.